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The Flavours of Fire

How does heat make food taste so damn good?
Kerri Duncan
Kerri Duncan
Freelance Writer
The Flavours of Fire
Image credit: Eneida Nieves on Pexels

Sure, cooking our food can make it safer to eat and more digestible.

But let’s be honest. We mainly cook to create something we enjoy – something delicious.

So how exactly does heat produce these tasty flavours?

And why do we all have different flavour preferences?

COMPLEXITY ON A PLATE

Simon Warwick is a lecturer at Curtin University who specialises in food chemistry.

He says there’s a lot more to the science behind flavours than we might think.

“Food science covers many areas, not just the chemistry,” says Simon.

“There’s also the sensory analysis, the taste buds and how they work.”

A photo of a sensory assessment facility: people sit at desks with white partitions between them
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Sensory analysis at the Murdoch Food Centre located in the Food Innovation Precinct of Western Australia

Image credit: Dr Wendy Hunt
Sensory analysis at the Murdoch Food Centre located in the Food Innovation Precinct of Western Australia

FEELIN’ FINE

Mouthfeel refers to how food physically feels in your mouth.

Is it creamy? Crunchy? Sticky? Does it coat your mouth, or cause a tingling sensation?

“So there’s physiology involved, as well as psychology,” says Simon.

But let’s start with some sweet cooking chemistry.

SWEET, SWEET CHEMICALS

Sugars naturally occur in many foods, pleasing our taste buds with their high-energy sweetness.

Adding heat can make extra-yummy flavours through a process known as caramelisation.

A photo of a creme brulee on a white plate, on a white tablecloth
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The best part of a crème brûlée is the caramel on top

Image credit: Mister Mister on Pexels
The best part of a crème brûlée is the caramel on top

“High heat breaks the bonds in simple sugars like glucose. These then form new bonds, making larger molecules and changing their overall shape,” says Simon.

“These large molecules absorb some light, causing a brown colour.”

A TASTY TAN

Caramelisation is what makes a crispy brown coating on your toasted marshmallow.

It can also lead to a bunch of different flavours depending on the sugars involved.

Simon says any good food chemistry book will feature a whole list of possible sugary compounds.

Diacetyl, for example, is responsible for buttery or butterscotch flavours.

Maltol is attributed to toasty flavours.

“And they’re all slightly different in how we respond to them,” says Simon.

“The more you heat the caramel, the more bitter tones are produced as well. Many people enjoy that combination,” he says.

PROTEIN PERFORMANCE

Next are proteins, which are incredibly complex molecules.

Dr Wendy Hunt, Academic Chair of Food Science and Nutrition at Murdoch University, says that proteins are made of hundreds of amino acids arranged with four levels of structure.

Heating changes protein structure and affects food flavours and textures.

“Heat causes the structures to denature or break. They can interact with other chemicals in food to create new and delicious flavours,” says Wendy.

“Changes caused by heat are reversible up to a certain point, but after that, more heat can cause proteins to coagulate.

“This is what you see when you cook an egg. The protein in the egg white coagulates and changes from clear liquid to firm white.”

A photo looking over a cook's shoulder to a flame grill where meat is cooking
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Flame grilling meat is an exercise in denaturing proteins

Image credit: Vidal Balielo Jr on Pexels
Flame grilling meat is an exercise in denaturing proteins

TEXTURE TANTRUMS

It can also have the opposite effect, explains Cyprian Maynard, an Adelaide-based chef of 20 years.

“Beans are a good example. If you cook them too long, the protein breaks down and they become soft and mushy,” he says.

Both the mouthfeel and flavours of these foods are wildly altered by the addition of heat.

“In a professional kitchen, taste and texture are both important,” says Cyprian.

“If you don’t sear meat when you start to cook it, it can become dry and tough to chew.”

SMOKING HOT

And when you’re cooking with fire, heat isn’t the only player in the game.

Smoke plays its own role in fiddling with flavours.

“Smoke from burning wood has volatile compounds like guaiacol and syringol,” explains Wendy.

“[These] give foods a characteristic smoky flavour.”

Cold smoking, commonly used for salmon, can add smoky characteristics to the fish. Hot smoking, like with meat and veg on a barbecue, adds even more complex flavour profiles.

“[These are] caused by heat-induced chemical reactions with the smoke,” says Wendy.

Food will absorb different flavours from smoke depending on its fat and water content and where the smoke is coming from.

Cyprian has used a variety of smoke sources to create different smoky flavours in his restaurants.

“I’ve used tea to smoke duck as well as hickory chips, and both have added very different flavours to the meat,” says Cyprian.

A METHOD TO THE MADNESS

How you apply heat to your food also has a big impact on its resulting flavour.

Have you ever argued with someone over the best way to cook a potato? Because food scientists certainly have.

A photo of roast potatoes
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10 out of 10 scientists approve of baked potatoes

Image credit: Pixabay
10 out of 10 scientists approve of baked potatoes

One such study compared the flavour and chemical profile of baked, boiled and steamed sweet potatoes.

The lucky tasting panellists scored the potatoes on sweetness, starchiness, viscosity, fibrous texture, firmness and overall taste.

They found that baked potatoes were sweeter, with higher levels of sugars and volatile compounds.

Boiled potatoes retained more moisture and had a softer texture, affecting the overall mouthfeel.

Steamed potatoes scored somewhere between the two for most categories.

ONE-TRACK MINDED

So which cooking method is the tastiest overall?

That depends on how you feel about it.

This is because culture and psychology are also major players in the favourite flavours game.

Simon says you can love certain flavours purely because of associated positive memories.

“[For example], burned marshmallows are mixed with sweet flavours and have positive emotions attached [for me], like going camping with my kids,” says Simon.

“This can improve [my] perception of the taste.”

A photo of a marshmallow on a stick roasting over a fire
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Burned marshmallows come with positive associations

Image credit: Bianca Gasparoto on Pexels
Burned marshmallows come with positive associations

Cyprian notes that many of his most popular restaurant dishes were traditional favourites cooked in a familiar way.

“People come back time and time again to experience the nostalgia and the good memories – just like Mumma used to make,” he says.

“I still love baking and roasting, probably because this is how my Grandma used to cook.”

Kerri Duncan
About the author
Kerri Duncan
Kerri is an Adelaide-based freelance writer with a background in animal science and molecular biology. Always up for an investigative adventure, Kerri is addicted to exploring Earth's wonders and finding as many waterfalls as possible. Her work in life sciences has deepened her appreciation of the natural world and she feels compelled to write about it.
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Kerri is an Adelaide-based freelance writer with a background in animal science and molecular biology. Always up for an investigative adventure, Kerri is addicted to exploring Earth's wonders and finding as many waterfalls as possible. Her work in life sciences has deepened her appreciation of the natural world and she feels compelled to write about it.
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